Mauritania - The Most Misunderstood Country I’ve Ever Visited 🇲🇷 | THE MOVIE
Crossing from Western Sahara into Mauritania marked the beginning of a completely different stage of my journey across Africa. The familiar infrastructure of Morocco disappeared almost immediately, replaced by open desert, frequent checkpoints and enormous distances between towns. Everything felt more remote, less predictable and considerably more demanding. It was a country I had heard countless warnings about, but the Mauritania I experienced was far more complex—and far more welcoming—than its reputation suggested.
My first destination was Nouadhibou, reached after navigating the border formalities and the rough, confusing section between the two countries. The conditions quickly introduced me to the realities of riding here: powerful winds, sand blowing across the road and long stretches with almost nowhere to stop. The desert was visually spectacular, but it demanded constant attention. Even a small mistake could become a serious problem when travelling alone on a heavily loaded motorcycle.
Continuing south toward Nouakchott, the road ran through seemingly endless emptiness. At one point, I rode through huge numbers of locusts filling the air and striking the motorcycle. It was one of the strangest moments of the journey—an already surreal desert landscape becoming even more chaotic. As I approached the capital, the silence of the Sahara was replaced by traffic, roadside activity and the disorder of a rapidly expanding city.
Nouakchott offered a glimpse of daily life far removed from the empty highways. The streets were busy, dusty and unpredictable, yet the city also provided a necessary pause before heading inland. From there, I left the Atlantic coast and travelled toward the heart of the country, where the distances grew longer and the landscapes became even more isolated.
One of the most memorable experiences was camping in the desert, surrounded by open space, rocky formations and complete silence. After days of wind, traffic and difficult riding, switching off the motorcycle and watching the light disappear across the Sahara felt extraordinary. There was no luxury and very little infrastructure, but the location itself was unforgettable. It was one of those rare places where the scale and stillness of the landscape made everything else feel insignificant.
I also travelled to see Mauritania’s legendary iron ore train, one of the sights I had most wanted to experience in the country. Reaching the railway required another long ride through remote terrain, but seeing the enormous train moving through the desert made the journey worthwhile. Its locomotives and endless line of heavy wagons seemed almost unreal against the empty landscape. The noise, dust and sheer scale of it made this one of the defining images of Mauritania.
From there, I continued toward Atar, the gateway to the historic towns and landscapes of the Adrar region. I left my 2023 Honda Africa Twin DCT in Atar and hired a local driver with a 4x4, as the next part of the journey would take me across rough desert tracks better suited to an off-road vehicle.
We travelled first to Ouadane, where I spent the night. The old settlement seemed to rise directly from the desert, with weathered stone buildings, narrow passages and ruins blending into the surrounding rocky landscape. Its isolation was as striking as its history. Walking through the remains of the old town, it was easy to understand how important these places once were to people travelling across the Sahara.
Early the following morning, we drove from Ouadane to the Eye of the Sahara, also known as the Richat Structure. From satellite images, it appears as an enormous circular formation, but from the ground there is no single point where the entire “eye” becomes visible. Instead, I found vast ridges, exposed rock and open plains extending far into the distance. The scale was difficult to comprehend and almost impossible to capture properly on camera.
After returning to Ouadane, we picked up another traveller from Greece and a child travelling with her. Together, we continued across the desert to Oasis de Tanouchert. The palm trees and small signs of life stood in sharp contrast to the barren terrain surrounding them. After hours of stone, sand and empty horizons, the oasis felt like a hidden world in the middle of nowhere.
Our final destination was Chinguetti, one of the most fascinating places I visited in Mauritania. Its old stone buildings and sandy lanes gave the impression of a town slowly being reclaimed by the desert. I visited its ancient manuscript libraries, where handwritten texts have been preserved by local families across generations. The libraries were modest and fragile, but the history stored inside them was remarkable.
Eventually, I returned to the motorcycle and continued south toward the border with Senegal. By then, Mauritania had already given me nearly every kind of experience: difficult roads, powerful winds, desert camps, chaotic cities, ancient settlements, immense landscapes and encounters with people who repeatedly challenged the negative image I had heard before arriving.
Mauritania was not an easy country to travel through. It required patience, preparation and respect for the environment. Yet it became one of the most memorable chapters of the entire African journey. What initially appeared harsh and intimidating gradually revealed itself as a country of extraordinary landscapes, deep history and genuine human warmth. It was not the place I had been warned about—it was one of the greatest surprises of the journey.
I’ll be documenting this adventure along the way — the good, the bad, and everything in between. If you want to ride with me through Africa’s deserts, mountains, chaos, and calm, you can follow the journey on Instagram, and TikTok. I’ll be sharing stories from the road, raw moments, and the reality behind chasing freedom on two wheels.
So, come along for the ride — the long way through Africa.
Peace!
